Redpox1st’s Weblog

Just another weblog

Jinlun Texan JL 125-11 How To Build / Install

This post is a continuation from here.

Warning: Before we start I want to make a few things clear.

1) I suggest you use a proper mechanic to put your bike together.

2) This is the way I put my 2 bikes together, It might be the right way It might also be the wrong way but this is the way I did it! My only previous experience with bikes was my Huoniao which is still going strong after 6000km so I must have done something right.

3) If you fuck up your bike or build a deathtrap I am not responible, I am writing this post to show people how I did my bike’s, If you decide to follow my instructions It is entirely at your own risk!

4) Please feel free to comment or give suggestions on any of my Instructions and if I have fucked up somewhere please let me know.

My Shopping List:

2 x 10ml bottles of 243 Threadlock from StarLoc Adhesives Ebay shop for £3.99 each.

2 x 600ml WD40 from my local Halfords at £3.99 each.

1 x 500g tub of Multi Purpose Grease (Halfords) at £5.49

2 x 400ml 3-In-One Professional White Lithium Grease also from the Local Halfords at £4.99 each and from ScrewFix Direct I bought a reversible 1/2″ Torque Wrench a 40pc Socket set(1/4″ & 3/8″) and a 26pc (cheap) toolkit which comes in a bag with an assortment of tools, all for £63.97 delivered.

1 x (borrowed) car jack.


My Big Boys Toys 🙂

Set some uninterupted time aside, It took me nearly 6hrs for the first bike and about 4hrs for the second bike. I did this over the Saturday & Sunday 1st & 2nd of November 2008.

I have tried to document everything and take pictures of important things but my Nokia N73 is a piece of shit and kept crashing on me so please excuse the picture quality.

I would suggest a strong friend to help, Getting the front wheel on is the hardest part of putting these bikes together, once it is on the rest will fall into place.

If I have forgotten anything please let me know.

Step 1) Take delivery of your box: This is big and heavy, 165kg in weight and the box dimensions are 202x57x87cm (nearly 7ft long).

The Box

The Box

Once you have unstraped it take the cardbord off and discard you will see the metal crate surrounding your new toy.

Metal Crate

Metal Crate

There will be some boxs tied to the crate, take these and any other loose bits(front wheel, mudguard, panniers, engine guard…..etc) and put to one side.

You will need to unbolt some of the parts that are attached to the metal crate.

Once you have all your bits and pieces start unbolting the metal crate. After you have all the bolts removed lift the top of the metal crate completely clear of the bike.(the metal crate is made of cheap and nasty metal which will snap and will cut you badly if it is given half a chance) remove some plastic wrapping so you can see what your up against.

Step 2) Puting on the front wheel: As I have already mentioned this is the hardest part and this is when you will need help, I am sure this is easy with the right tools and I am sure there is a better way to do this but this is the way I did it.

Unbolt the front forks from the metal crate (you might need to use a bit of gentle persuasion here, a hammer does wonders).

This will release the forks from the crate and you will be left with 3 pieces, the wheel bolt, a metal spacer(short tube) and the nut.

Remove the plastic spacer that is in between the front brake disc pads (do not close brake pads)

Set up your car jack under the main frame of the bike.


Have somebody hold the bike steady while you jack it up. Be gentle, careful and take your time with this, make sure the jack is secure and once the forks are raised enough to put the front wheel on (I would suggest getting a piece of wood and laying it over the area of the crate that the forks where connected to as this area is sharpe and will cut through your new tyre with ease once the jack is let down) take your bolt and starting from the right(as you look at it) fork put the bolt through this, then through the wheel counter (looks like a cover with a cable connecting it to the speedo)


, position the front wheel so the disc is in between the brake disc pads and continue through the wheel with the bolt, when you get to the other side of the wheel place the metal spacer between the left fork and the wheel


and push the bolt through to the other side(this will take a bit of jiggiling and a hammer comes in handy here too) of the fork where you can now screw on the nut and tighten.

Once the wheel is securly on you can let down the jack and carefully roll the bike out of the remainder of the metal crate.

Step 3) Cosmetics: I wanted to get the cosmetics out of the way first so I could then concentrate on the mechanical. All the nuts and bolts you need are in one of the cardbord boxs you took off earlier.

Sissy bar/seat: find these parts

Sissy bar/seat

Sissy bar/seat

Bolt to the back of the seat, easy.

Engine guard:

Engine guard

Engine guard

This is a bit difficult to explain so hopefully the pictures will show how its done, attach the 2 metal plates to the guard using nuts supplied and then bolt to frame of bike.(you will have to undo one of the bike frames main bolts so you can attach it,then thighten the bolt back up)

Engine guard bolted to frame

Engine guard bolted to frame

Then use the horse shoe bolt around the actual bike frame, posistion and tighten.

Engine guard horse shoe bolt

Engine guard horse shoe bolt

Tighten and threadlock all the bolts and tug on the engine guard to just make sure its secure and strong.

Side Panniers guards:

Side Panniers guards

Side Panniers guards

You will have 2 of these one for the left and one for the right, there are no bolts for these as they are bolted directly to the bike using the bikes existing bolts.

Exsisting bolts

Existing bolts

There are 2 main bolts for the guard to be attached to, the shock absorber bolt is one and the other is the longer protruding bolt. Undo both of these, attach the guard and tighten.

Attach and tighten

Attach and tighten

Do exactly the same for the other side.


Find these parts:


Position into place at the rear of the 2 side guards (as below) , then bolt and tighten.


You can now add the panniers and bolt into place if you want, I left them till the end as not to damage them.

Indicators: these are the second hardest part of the bike, they are just awkward, I don’t know if this is the correct way to do them and im sure theres an easier way but this is the way I did them and they work. First use your key to remove the main seat


Trace the indicator cables to their connection points (kind of electrical clips), disconnect the wires taking note of which go’s where, Unscrew the nut at the base of the Indicator(there is some electrical tape that you will have to remove to completely unscrew the nut) and slide it off the remaining cable.

Thread the cable through the hole in the rear pannier guard, thread the nut back on the cable, tighten into place and replace the electrical tape to secure.


Now you will have to find a way of neatly getting the cable back to the connection points (this is a fiddly job) I finally got the wire in between the rear mud guard and the chrome. connect back up the cables and do the same for the other side.

While you have the seat off It would do no harm to pack all the connector blocks with grease, It will stop water getting in.

Packing the block with grease

Packing the block with grease

Step 4) Pedals: I will start off with the brake pedal / foot rest as it is relatively simple, The foot rest is pointing downwards with the brake pedal.


All you have to do is unscrew the bolt, move the foot rest down into place and screw the bolt back in.


Hey Presto!

Clutch foot rest/pedal:

Unscrew the 2 bolts


Place the foot rest/pedal into position and screw the bolts back in.


Now while your doing this take notice of the 2 knobbly bits, 1 that is attached to the clutch pedal and one attached to the bike engine just beside the side stand. In the picture it is the right hand side of the photo.


knobbly bit

Now find the clutch pedal bar.

Clutch Pedal Bar

Clutch Pedal Bar

This bar is threaded differently on both sides, there is a knack to this. Position the bar in between the 2 knobbly bits (you may need to pull back the knobbly bit attached to the engine to do this) when it is perfectly aligned start screwing the bar into the knobbly bit attached to the engine, if aligned correctly it will automaticly screw it self into the other knobbly bit and you will see the clutch pedal move into postion.


Once fully screwed in you can tighten the nuts against it.

Step 5) Handle Bars: I am not going to explain how to mount the handle bars because it is common sense what I will explain is the Clutch cable, the following photo is a bad one but your looking for the metal cable in the plastic sleave thats hanging near the speedo, you need to put this into the clutch lever attached to the handle bars.


Take the brake lever and throttle and attach them to the other side. Please note: There is a lot of free play in the throttle, on an average bike throttle free play is usually between 2mm – 10mm but on this bike the free play is 36mm.


Now mount your handle bars and screw on your wing mirrors.

Mount your speedo with the 2 nuts, washers and bolts supplied.02112008346

Step 6) Battery: Fill the battery as per instructions and connect to the bike, Put some grease on the connections to help prevent corrosion.

Step 7) Fuel line: there is a fuel line coming from the fuel tap, just plug the other end into the nipple at the carburettor and bobs you uncle.

Step 8) Start your engine: give it about 20mins for the battery to charge, put some petrol in and start her up!


Finish off: Now while your waiting for the DVLA to get off their arse and send you a reg plate number, it gives you plenty of time to go through the bike thoroughly and tighten every single nut and bolt this is a necessity as many will have worked themselves loose in their journey from China, Threadlock whatever you can.

Tyre Pressure:

Check your tyre pressure Front Tyre: 200 kpa = 29 psi Rear Tyre: 225 kpa = 32.5 psi

Get your WD40 and cover the bike with it (I mean everywhere!) give it an hour to penetrate everything and spend another hour buffing and polishing it off, this will prevent rust on the bike and all your chrome work.

Comments and Suggestions Welcome:

I am sure I have left something out so if you have any comments, questions or suggestions please feel free to comment as we only learn by making mistakes.

A final word of warning: Tighten, tighten, tighten. but don’t over tighten 🙂

I hope this post has been helpful to somebody.

Update: Wed 19/Nov/2008:

Just to update you on my adventure and my findings, I have decided to keep the Red (Wine/Burgundy, whatever you want to call it!) bike for myself and sell on the black one, even though I am normally quite partial to black, the red one looks so much better.

Jennifer (as I have now named her) has of last week been taxed,insured,registered and on the road since Saturday.

a couple of notes:

1) The bike must be broken in (run in) for the first 1000km, so nothing faster than 40mph.

2) There is a knack to starting the bike with the choke, Jennifer likes her choke fully on for 10seconds then half on until she’s heated up. Im sure each girl has her own preference and you will have to figure your one out for yourself.

3) When you first pull away you have to give the throttle some welly otherwise she will just cut out on you!

4) My gears are a bit funny, sometimes she doesnt want to go into 4th or 5th and other times she’s perfect, I think its all part of the running in process so just go easy on her and make sure that you are continually usinig each gear during this period.

These are observations I made of my bike, your mileage may vary. but all in all I am delighted with her.

While information gathering I stumbled across The Jinlun Motorcycle Owners Club. Wow! I was stunned. This is an amazing find for anyone even thinking of getting a Jinlun! But if you own a Jinlun its a necessity!

The visitors forum is free and you can find some great hints & tips and lots of info but the real jewel in the crown is if you choose to become a member (and you should!) you pay your £10 yearly membership fee and suddenly the world of Jinlun is unlocked where you have access to all the information you will ever need, Top Notch (and I mean Top Notch) Maintenace Guides and hundreds of down to earth,friendly individuals just like you, willing to answer any of your questions on the forum.

My suggestion is Join And Pay, you wont be disappointed.

From time to time I will be updating this blog with my adventure’s on Jennifer so untill next time Ride Hard And Crash Soft!

“Bikes don’t leak oil, they mark their territory.” Author Unknown


November 3, 2008 - Posted by | Uncategorized


  1. […] I have decided to write about the building process in a separate post Here. […]

    Pingback by Pioneer Nevada / Jinlun Texan: A Diary — Marshy’s Motorcycles? « Redpox1st’s Weblog | November 3, 2008 | Reply

  2. Marshys have now gone bust and left 100’s of customers out of pocket as they haven’t recieved motorcycles or clothing they paid in full for.

    Comment by Bill | January 24, 2009 | Reply

  3. Hello,

    I’m the webmaster of, a french website dedicated to jinlun 125.11.

    I found this article very interesting. Would you autorise me to traduce some part of it in french and use some of your photos in my website?

    It would be very nice and could help many french owner’s of this bike.Please give me an answer by mail.

    Comment by Highlander125 | April 7, 2009 | Reply

  4. If im not putting on the pannier rails or panniers, where can i position the indicators? as these seem to attach to the rear rail and the pannier rails.

    Comment by scott | January 31, 2010 | Reply

  5. What about the Sea Monkeys you jerk?

    Comment by Terry | November 19, 2011 | Reply

  6. hi just curious to how much oil she would take on a oil change ??? i just a bought 2005 model,, about to drop the oil this week just not sure on how much to put back into her. Thanks

    Comment by stewart graham | July 23, 2017 | Reply

  7. 👍brilliant story so glad for you it turns out ok , I was thinking of going through bikes direct last year I bought a Tommy retro twists and go scooter just so I can get used to riding on the road love it!!!,.. but NOW i want a geared bike and was thinking of getting the lexo Arizona, by your experience i think i would rather the wait just for the paperwork when registring it That was the only thing that was enoying,,,I just couldn’t wait to get on it and ride ..

    Comment by Mark miles | November 13, 2017 | Reply

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: